What is corrosion?
To understand the nature of our device we need to know what it is to prevent. The most common and well-known corrosion is galvanic corrosion, which is the result of local galvanic cells formed on the surface of the metal. In any case, an important component of those cells is the electrolyte solution. In the case of atmospheric corrosion the electrolyte is condensed moisture and rain water always containing a certain amount of dissolved substances such as oxygen, carbon dioxide, sulphur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, and others. The corrosion process caused by mentioned corrosion cells is the anodic process – the formation of positive ions from the metal atoms. Electrochemical corrosion is the most common type of corrosion. It is one of the common atmospheric corrosion phenomena,which is caused by the action of moist impure air on metals.Electrochemical corrosion occurs when short-circuited cell stake action on the interface between a metal and an electrolyte. These cells are formed as a result of chemical heterogeneity (or physical) of a metal, e.g. at the interface between various metals, or as a result of heterogeneity in the crystalline structure of the metal. Corrosion of metals usually manifests itself in metal surface defects (stains and pitting), or the reduction of the metal strength.
Cathodic protection is an electrochemical corrosion protection. Cathodic protection is a technique used to control the corrosion of a metal surface by making it the cathode of an electrochemical cell. The simplest method to apply CP is by connecting the metal to be protected with a piece of another more easily corroded "sacrificial metal" to act as the anode of the electrochemical cell. It is accomplished by direct contact (so-called anodic coating) or with a conductor. With the use of protectors large steel objects such as ship hulls, pipelines and underground tanks are protected against corrosion. Protectors are made of sheet metal or bars of active metals such as zinc, magnesium or aluminium, with the wires connected to a protected object. In the cell formed this way, the anode is the protector which corrodes. After being used, the protectors are exchanged for new ones. Anodic coatings (protectors) are made of metal with a more negative electrode potential (less noble) than the metal being protected. Anodic coatings of metals provide the protected metal with cathodic protection as the coating made of less precious metal is made the anode and acts as a protector. Examples of anode coatings are zinc and cadmium. The most important practical application of anodic coating is galvanizing – the application of a zinc coating on steel surfaces. When cracks or fissures appear, a cell is formed in which the cathode is iron and the anode is zinc. In this situation, zinc ions go into solution instead of iron ions. Thus, in the case of anodic coating of metal surfaces, the coating doesn’t have to be perfectly sealed.
Here is a voltage range of metals from the least
Na <Mg <Al <Zn <Fe <Cd <Co <Ni <Pb <H <Cu
<Hg <Ag <Au
The more negative the value of the normal
potential of the metal is, the greater tendency to pass into solution it has.
Shortly speaking, if we connected them all, they
would corrode in that order.
Active cathodic protection
We can achieve the same effect if we connect the protector with the
positive pole of the direct current, while the protected structure is connected
to the negative pole.
How it works?
Method of the operation of our device is well known and used in the industry as cathodic corrosion protection. The method has been used for years to protect ships and in the building industry to protect reinforced concrete structures, underground tanks and pipelines from corrosion. In these cases other methods of corrosion maintanance would be virtually impossible on those huge surfaces. Thus, passive method is used which is based on the natural potential differences of metals. This is an active device and requires power, however, it generates a much higher voltage which affects its efficiency and miniaturization. As it is well known the electrochemical corrosion is the result of local galvanic cells forming on the metal surface. In any case, an important component of the cell is the electrolyte solution. In the case of atmospheric corrosion the electrolyte is condensed moisture and rain water always containing a certain amount of dissolved substances such as oxygen, carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, and others. The corrosion process caused by mentioned corrosion cells is the anodic process – the formation of positive ions from the metal atoms. Our device eliminates this process. Cathodic protection method involves the polarization of the metal parts exposed to corrosion with the direct current and changes the electrode potential in the negative direction. When our device is used the positively polarized projectors because of their "electric attractiveness" take over most of the corrosion processes and make the body of the car less attractive for the corrosion and safe. The device prevents the occurrence of adverse event of electric cell and even in contact with electrolytes such as salt water or acid rain, and even with significant unprotected metal surfaces, such as scratches, chips or even already existing corrosion.In such a situation, the body of our car or other protected item remains safe. The device can also be used for the permanent corrosion protection of other metal objects such as agricultural machinery, utility tables, even fences and roofing.
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For years, corrosion is a major problem in the automotive industry, where the car body's sheet metal can be quickly destroyed by corrosion. There are several ways of protecting your car from corrosion. The first and probably the most popular and cheapest way is to cover the metal surface with a protective coating, including all kinds of paints and varnishes. However, you need to pay attention to the coating tightness. Every chip or damage will start the process of corrosion. In the 70's and 80's more expensive car bodies were immersed in tanks with anti-corrosion solution as in the case of Volvo. Unfortunately, the protection was effective only in places where the body of the car was not exposed to any mechanical action. As can be seen in many places, paint coatings are frayed or scratched by the working parts or all kinds of plastic elements or wires. Another fact is that the car body is working all the time as well, which can be frequently seen when you raise the car up using the car jack and you try to close or open the door. When the car body works, micro cracks in coating appear. These are disadvantages of this method of corrosion protection. After several years, a new era in the corrosion protection began. Nowadays much better, more efficient and cheaper method can be used - cathodic corrosion protection, which is now generally known as
galvanization. Steel surfaces are coated with zinc or hot-dip galvanized.
This methodis much more effective than conventional methods,
there is no need to sealingly cover the metal surface. Zinc as a metal
with a lower electric potential concentrates all the electrochemical
reactions commonly known as corrosion or rust. Our devices work
on thesame principle of anti-corrosive protection , they are an
alternative tothe cars without galvanic coatingafter accidents, and as
an extra protection after the warranty period when the zinc coatingis
worn off. Unfortunately, when the zinc coating is worn off because of being constantly exposed to corrosion, and when the car was repaired and the item hadn’t been pre-galvanized or the zinc layer was damaged during welding or grinding, those parts are prone to rapid corrosion.
Because of this we have created ACCP Active Cathodic Corrosion Protection system where the polarization with the use of the electric current causes much greater difference between potentials and allows point installations. The presented device is designed to protect any vehicle with 12V power supply - because such voltage is
needed. The device is constructed in such a way that it is absolutely safe for the vehicle electronic system and all devices installed. Power consumption is minimal -12 mA.
The device is easy to install. The usually suggested places are the drain trough
under the hood and the tailgate.
There we screw or stick the electrodes. You will receive the installation instructions via e-mail after the purchase, and with the device in the package. It is also available in the "Installation" tab.
The device does not affect any receivers or installations
in the car.
Power consumption is low. According to our
measurements it is 11-12 mA less than a standard car alarm.
Installation in the car
To ensure the most efficient and fault-free operation of the device, it is recommended to fix the electrodes (bars at the ends of the cables) to the car body using non-conductive way like nylon cable tight or not conductive plastic screw (most recommended). Use a sharp tool and make under the electrode a 2-3 cm long and 2 mm wide deep scratch down to the bare metal. Eventually you can use a metal screw, but it has to be stainless steel or brass one. Make sure that the electrode is placed on a flat surface of the body and covers previously done scratch. Under no circumstances should we clean the entire surface under the electrode! The rainwater has to pass the electrode. In no case should it be secured or preserved! We recommend wiping the entire surface with coarse sandpaper. In the Cathodic method, the anodes take over the electrochemical reaction process which is corrosion. Because of that, you need to check the condition of electrodes from time to time and if they are severely corroded, replace them with new ones. They are usually aluminum – magnesium, zinc – magnesium, zinc or aluminum – zinc bars which grip the cables. The wires are gripped by the electrodes. Make sure to secure the junction between the cable and the electrode. We recommend the purchase of new electrodes. From us you will receive them with wires, just cut off the old ones and solder the new electrodes. Of course, those that came with the device should last for a long time, at least 24 months. We install them in places where they are in contact with the electrolyte which is rainwater, etc. It is very important in the Cathodic method. Protectors must be in contact with weather conditions, which means putting them in the front in the engine compartment, e.g. in the drain – in the water-trough of the fender, at the back in the drain as well – in the water-trough of the trunk, etc.
Before the installation, grind the electrode with coarse sandpaper from all sides! Also you will have to drill the hole in the electrode. Diameter and place of the hole depends on the installation location.
Installation of two devices
To avoid dragging the cables along the car we suggest install one device in the front and the second one at the back also both sides.
Installation in Motorbike
Mainly consists of tightening connecting electrodes in the two far-away electro conductive places of the body eg. front fork and rear rocker. To ensure the most efficient and fault-free operation of the device, it is recommended to fix the electrodes (bars at the ends of the cables) to the car body using nylon cable or Velcro strap to quick release and go. Also You can connect it permanently in invisible places. Remember to plug in directly to bike battery. During a long period of non-use we recommend connecting the battery to charging.
wire (power) battery +
and yellow (ground) battery -
The device must be running non-stop.
Connect it permanently to constant 12V power supply ! Not with the ignition!
As far as the box itself
is concerned, install it inside the car, somewhere in the cockpit board or any other convenient place as a car alarm. One LED lights up permanently on the box. As it’s a pulsing device, when it works impulses start to appear in the second diode placed inside the box.
How many devices your vehicle requires for optimal protection?
Small cars up to 5 years old (eg.size Toyota IQ,) Quads Trike bikes: 1 or more devices
Small cars over 5 years old, all repaired or slightly corroded vehicles, medium and bigger cars, vans: minimum 2 or more devices
SUVs: 2 devices for chassis and 1 or 2 for the frame (optional)
Motorcycles : 1 device
1. My car is not in the table, I don’t know
how many devices should I order?
The table isn’t updated frequently, even if it
was, we would have to put there all car brands of the world. We can compare the
size of our car to those in the table and order the same number of devices. In
the case of a used car, an older one with existing corrosion or with sheet
metal repairs, please contact us regarding the optimal number of systems that
should be bought.
2. Will the device help at all if the car
has signs of corrosion?
Yes, of course. After years of experience,
we know that the devices are ideal for cars with the already existing corrosion.
They definitely slow down its further development even to a complete stop (this
depends on the current amount of corrosion in the car).
3. Can I drill a hole in the electrode to screw
Yes. We recommend attaching the electrodes well
with a screw or a bolt. We suggest using stainless steel or brass screws or
4. My car has plastic fenders. Where should
I screw the electrode?
In such a situation, you can change the
place of installation. Drain troughs are the optimal location to mount the
electrodes, however, when the situation requires it, you can install the
electrodes e.g. below the bumper in a place that is not visible or in some
other place where the electrode will be in contact with the external
environment and preferably with rainwater.
Please note that the plastic fenders are
also screwed to metal elements, so if the electrode is bolted to the inner
element through the plastic fender, it will also be correct if you keep the
electrical connection between the electrode and the car body.
5. How can I install 2 devices? Do I
necessarily need to install one on each side of the car or can I install them
in the front and back?
Both cases ensure proper installation. Please
install them in the least troublesome way. If you have power in the trunk, it
wouldn’t make sense to drag all the cables from the front of the car. In such a
case you should install one device in the front and the other one at the back
of your car. If it’s more convenient to install the devices on each side using
one power supply for both devices, please go ahead and install them like that.
6. Where to mount the box with electronics?
We strongly suggest installation of the
electronics module inside the vehicle in a dry place, just like the alarms,
7. Is it possible that your device discharges
There's no way it might happen if the car battery
is fully functional. Thanks to the pulse operation our device has a minimal power
consumption of 12mA (as much as an analog clock in the car takes).
8. I have an LPG gas installation in my car.
Can the device disrupt its operation?
Absolutely not, our devices are completely
harmless for gas and any other systems in your car and they do not cause any
9. I have audio and video system in my car.
Can the device disturb the reception?
No, our devices do not cause any
interference in the audio and video systems in cars.
10. Can your device interfere with my CB
No, our system does not cause any
interference in properly installed transmitting and receiving devices including
the CB radio.
11. I have to repair and weld sheet metal,
do I need to remove the system?
Yes, you need to remove the electrodes and
disconnect the power supply.
12. How often do I need to replace the
electrodes and where to buy them?
Electrodes should be replaced when they are
severely worn out. If the electrodes are corroded on the surface, they should
be cleaned of oxides with a wire brush or sandpaper and attached again. If they
are too worn out to use them any longer, they need to be replaced with new
ones. This period depends on many factors, the size of the vehicle and the
conditions of its use, but it should not be less than about two years. You can
make the purchase in our company, use the purchase form or any of available options.
13. My car is made entirely of aluminum.
Do I need your device?
Of course, aluminum corrodes like any other
metal. The main reason for the use of that metal in the cars is the significant
reduction of weight. Our system protects the cars made of aluminum effectively
just like those made of steel. Among our clients there are owners of such cars
made of aluminum as Audi A8 as Aston Martin DB9.
14. I have a problem with dragging the
electrode cable to the back of the car. The electrode is too thick, what can I
In such a case, you can cut the cable and
pass it through the narrow slits. Remember to solder and isolate the joint after
15. Can I shorten the electrode cable? I
installed two devices in the front and at the back. One of the cables is too
long, can I cut it?
Of course, it is even recommended as too long
cable is usually coiled or refracted which has a negative impact on the
effectiveness of the electrode. In any case of length reduction, solder and isolate
16. It seems to me that one electrode does
not corrode, on the other one there are signs of corrosion. Is something not connected
Check the connection between the electrode
and the protected object. It must be a good electrical connection.
You should also check if the cable isn’t rolled
and doesn’t create a coil or if it isn’t broken. In both cases, it can lead to
a serious deterioration in the electrode performance.