Frequently Asked Questions

Check the connection between the electrode and the metal part of the vehicle. It must have a good electrical connection. Also, ensure the cable isn’t coiled or broken, as both can reduce electrode performance.

Yes, absolutely. Based on years of experience, we know that our devices are effective even on cars with existing corrosion. They significantly slow down corrosion, and in some cases, can stop it entirely (depending on the level of corrosion present).

Yes, shortening the cable is recommended. Long cables can coil or bend, reducing effectiveness. Always solder and insulate the joints after cutting.

You can cut the cable to pass it through narrow spaces. Be sure to solder and insulate the joint afterward.

Yes. Aluminium corrodes like any other metal. While it reduces the car’s weight, it still needs protection. Our system effectively protects aluminium vehicles, just as it does for steel ones. Many of our customers own aluminium cars such as the Audi A8 and Aston Martin DB9.

Replace the electrodes when they are severely worn. If they are only corroded on the surface, clean them with a wire brush or sandpaper and reattach them. If they are too damaged, replace them with new ones. Lifespan depends on factors like vehicle size and usage conditions but generally lasts at least two years. You can purchase replacements directly from us using the purchase form or other available options.

Yes, you must remove the electrodes and disconnect the power supply during repairs or welding.

No, our system does not interfere with properly installed transmitting or receiving devices, including CB radios.

No, our devices do not cause any interference with audio or video systems.

Not at all. Our devices are completely safe for LPG systems and will not interfere with any other systems in your car.

No, this will not happen if your battery is fully functional. Thanks to its pulse operation, the device uses minimal power—just 12mA (about the same as a car’s analogue clock).

We strongly recommend installing the electronics module inside the vehicle in a dry area, similar to where alarms or immobilisers are placed.

Both methods are correct. Choose the most convenient option. For example, if you have a power supply in the boot, it makes sense to install one device in the front and one in the back. However, if it's easier to install both on each side with a shared power source, that’s also fine.

In this case, you can change the installation location. Drain troughs are ideal for mounting the electrodes. However, if needed, you can install them below the bumper or in another hidden area where the electrode will still contact the external environment, ideally rainwater. Please note that plastic fenders are usually attached to metal components. If the electrode is bolted through the plastic fender to an internal metal part, it will still work as long as it maintains an electrical connection with the car body.

Yes, we recommend securely attaching the electrodes using a screw or bolt. Stainless steel or brass screws or bolts are preferred.

The table isn’t updated frequently. Even if it were, it would be impossible to list all car brands globally. Compare your car’s size with those listed in the table and order the same number of devices. For older cars, used vehicles, or cars with existing corrosion or sheet metal repairs, please contact us for advice on the optimal number of systems to purchase.